Sunday, May 8, 2011

An elephant is eaten is small pieces.

The title refers to a saying a local Namibian told me. I was explaining what it was like on the tour, with the days being so long, but the weeks flying by so quickly. She said "An elephant is eaten in small pieces". I figured that would be the most fitting way to describe this tour. So, here I sit in Felix Unite, Namibia. It's right on the border with South Africa. There are 6 riding days remaining in the tour. What can I say? I'm speachless. This tour has changed me as a person. I'm actually at a loss for words. This whole experience is something so great, it's going to be impossible for me to describe, but I'll try anyway.

This trip is something I would never wish on my worst enemy, but would highly recommend to my best friend. It is a vacation only because I paid for it. If I didn't, it would be a labour camp. This tour has challenged me in new ways, both physically and mentally. I have been happy, sad, frustrated, angry, tired, wired, scared, passive, excited, breathless and speachless, sick, healthy and everything in between. I have loved every single second of it, bar none. Well, maybe a few seconds when I was getting shot at. But no doubt, this trip has changed me. I have had a lot of time to think and unwind. I feel I've grown up a bit, even though I don't want to admit it to myself. It has shown me how lucky I am to be in the position I am in, and how much I have, but it's also shown me how little I need. I've met people I would never have met before and will leave Africa with some wonderful, lifelong friends. When I left Canada, I figured I would leave bodybuilding behind for a few months and try something new. But then it happened: I found myself researching road bikes instead of proteins and chamois instead of gym shoes. I've become a cyclist.

The things I've seen here many people would be envious of as well. I've seen the pyramids, the Sudanese desert, swam in the Nile, climbed the Blue Nile Gorge, drank Malawi Gin on the edge of Lake Malawi, walked through Victoria Falls, climbed the dunes in Namibia and cycled nearly 12000km! It's a funny thought about what has actually taken place over the past 4 months. You spend all your time with the same people, doing the same things are you are that you lose all perspective of what is actually going on. Your days just seem normal, like you're going to work. But you fail to realize what you've just accomplished, whether it be 207km into storms or 172km on dirt road. Over time, you achieve a larger goal: to get to Capetown. An elephant is eaten in small pieces, as they say.

So, with the finish line in sight and one more week of (hopefully) easy cycling, I am awaiting the end. I will leave the TDA bubble and slowly reintegrate myself into normal life again (lame, I have to get a job). I'll be home to party with old, lifelong friends and family and recount some of my stories to those who will listen. Thanks to all my followers and friends for your never-ending support. I couldn't have done it without you guys. And, as per usual, I leave you with some random stats.

Animals I have decimated: Beef, chicken, lamb, pork, tuna, trout, salmon, Nile perch, goat, sole, hake fish, springbok, blesbok, gemsbok, kudu, oryx, donkey, camel, ox, ostrich, zebra, blue wildebeest, eland, crocodile, random livers, ostrich egg, regular egg, and pigeon. Eat that vegetarians!
Falls: 6
Punctures to date: 34
Parts changed to date: Tires x2, chain x1, cassette x1, jockey wheels x3, rear wheel bearings x4, front wheel bearings x1, brake cables x2, shifter cables x2, brake rotors x2, brake pads x3 sets, brake calipers x2, crankset x1
Consumables: Toothpaste tubes x3, deodorant sticks x2, toilet paper rolls x3, baby wipes x200, 1L rubbing alcohol, socks x6 pairs, underwear x2, soap x2 bars
Showers to date: 15
Rides on the truck: 1 (damn!)

See you all in a week!
Danimal

Thursday, April 28, 2011

The 207.

And, no, not the car. A few days ago, just before I crossed the border in Namibia, I was beaten up by 3 guys. It was my old nemesis, Headwind, and his two friends, Cold and Rain. And they beat me up with 207km of hard riding. What can I say? Even I have limits. I am pleased to report, though, that my limits are way farther than 207. I did the whole day, including 130km by myself into some of the worst storms I have seen. We had hail, rain, lightning and some ridiculous wind. I had to bike with my head down because the rain was flying horizontally. At maximum leg output, I was going 22km/h, which is a little slower than my normal 33km/h. Anyway, I made it and I am now safely in Namibia! The rain, unfortunately has decided not to stop. They have been having unseasonal rains here that are incredible. I was eating in a cafe after a race one day and it was raining so hard, the water in the streets was over the curb. Apparently, Windhoek (German for "windy corner"), the capital receives 600mm of rain annually. This year, they are already at 1000mm. Hurray. :( So, now it's not only going to be cold, but also rainy. Good thing I just lost my sweater.

On a happier note, my racing career was short and sweet. I finished this section 4th, I believe and I actually came first in a stage! I'm not sure if the web page has been updated, but I won stage 76, a 157km race. I think I did it in about 4.5 hours. So, I am rather pleased with myself. However, now that we are entering the desert again, there will be some stuff to see, so I handed in my racing chip. A short and sweet career indeed.

Tonight, I will be eating at Joe's Beer House, where they serve game meat. I am going to have a platter called the bushman's platter, which is basically a sampler of different meats. I have been eating as many animals as I possibly can, so I can already add these to my list: Gemsbok, kudu, oryx. Tonight I can hopefully add zebra to that list.

So, I'm not sure if I am going to be able to post again before I'm done. We are heading into the Namibian desert, where I imagine internet to be scarce. I only have two more rest days anyway. Plus, the places we're staying are going to be in the middle of nowhere, apparently. So, in case of no more posts, I would just like to thank everyone for their continuing support of me on this tour. I've said it before, but there is no way I could have finished this tour without knowing I have an awesome team behind me at home. So, thank you everyone for all your kind messages and words of support. Also, I apologize for getting too drunk at the finish line. Please excuse any pictures you might see of me on the net. And if you want to see my beard, do so ASAP, cause I hate it and it's coming off as soon as I get home.

Danimal

Friday, April 22, 2011

Post-blog edit**

I'm currently in 4th place for the Elephant Highway stage. Check the results again in a few days for a more accurate placing.

http://www.tourdafrique.com/tours/tourdafrique/race-results/2011/elephant-highway#t

And now for my second death-defying feat... Outrunning a pissed off elephant!

Ok, so I make it sound better than it actually was. He mock charged me. But I didn't stay around long enough to determine if he was really going to keep running at me. So, after Livingstone, Zambia (which I'll get to in a second), the tour started a new section called "The Elephant Highway". Funny name, right? Well, 11km into this section, myself and a fellow rider named Adam came upon a rider named Len. Len had warned us that there was an angry elephant ahead and that he was charging people. Now, Len is in his 60s and is a stereotypical American, so I didn't pay much attention. Adam and I rode on only to find... guess what... an angry elephant about 10m off the road. And guess what he did? He charged us! Surprise, surprise. At the time, I was sure he was actually charging us, as he came out of the bush trumpeting, stomping his feet and flapping his ears. Now, let me tell you that if you want to test a 0 to 50km/h sprint, have an elephant chase you. Anyway, we actually had turned around to head back toward camp/Len, so I realized it was a mock charge, but not before someone peed in my pants. So, in response, Adam and I waited with Len for more riders and went as a large group after the elephant had retreated into the bush (I'm pretty my giant cyclist build scared him off). So, the rest of the day was without incident as we entered Botswana. Strangely enough, we had a wildlife specialist come to our camp and give us a brief on what to do around elephants. Namely, do not cycle within 100m of them, under any circumstance, even if they are happy. Well, I like to live dangerously, as some Kenyans can attest to.

Ok, well, before that,  I was in Zambia. At first, Zambia was very similar to Malawi, only a lot more expensive. There were vast fields of corn and maize-like crops, called sorghum. Also, there was corn. And I noticed some corn.  Really, I was unimpressed with Zambia. So far, Malawi and Zambia have been my least favourite countries. Very expensive with not a whole lot to offer. What I can praise Zambia about is Livingstone. Named after the famous explorer, David Livingstone, it is home to the beautiful Victoria Falls. The tour stayed at a hotel called "The Waterfront" which was about 5km away from the falls and right along the Zambezi river. At night, the camp was quiet enough to hear the falls. Anyway, I had two days rest at this hotel, which was well needed. The first night I got good and drunk, as people were buying rounds left, right and centre. I woke up the next day to an all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast and then headed off to the Falls with Ryan. We took our bikes (believe it or not, they are a handy mode of transport) down and cycled right in the main gate without being stopped, saving us $20USD. We walked all around the back of, and then across a bridge right in the middle of the falls, called the "Boiling Point". Here we proceeded to get soaked. The spray from the falls is insane. It's way heavier than any rain you will ever experience, but it's a hell of a lot of fun. All of the tourists were wearing rain jackets (wusses), but Ryan and I just wore our clothes. We would end up drying off as we cycled home anyway. The second day in Livingstone, I did nothing. I relaxed. I ate some food, slept, did some laundry and relaxed some more. It was well deserved.

So, after we left Livingstone, we crossed the border to Botswana. In doing so, we actually crossed into Zimbabwe and Namibia as we took a (very, very unsafe-feeling) ferry across the Zambezi. All 4 countries intersect in the middle of the river. There is no bridge because the countries are having a hissy fit over tariffs and payment to build a bridge. So, there is a lineup of trucks that can take up to 2 weeks to cross from country to country via this two-truck ferry. African efficiency at it's best. So, yes, we ended up in Botswana, prime wildlife area. Our first night camping, I heard a very angry elephant and awoke the next day to find some trees torn apart and a light standard folded in half just outside out camp. He must have been one pissed off pachyderm. Also, the same morning, as I cycled off, I saw two buffalo (which are WAY bigger than you imagine), three impala, and a bunch of huge birds called ground hornbills that could eat a turkey vulture for breakfast. In general, I have been very pleased with Botswana. It is up there with Tanzania and Sudan as my favourite countries. It's really cool seeing wildlife as you bike past.

I would like to issue an appology to all my readers. I have been pretty slack with my blogging. There will probably be no more pictures because the internet here is just so unreliable and slow that it becomes a huge chore to try and upload without your own laptop. Also, as the tour draws to a close, I keep getting a sadness that it will all be over soon. Instead of blogging, I usually go and spend as much time with friends/riders as I can. I know it will probably be a long time before I see them again, so I'm jamming as much time in as possible. Plus, it will be a lot better to hear stories from me in person when I'm home, than over "teh interwebs". I never feel I am quite conveying my full personality through the blog anyway. Speaking of personality, this next and final month of the tour will really challenge me. Many people are starting to ride the truck instead of cycle, and opt for hotel rooms instead of camping. It seems that the three month mark is the limit for most people. Not me. I am tackling this last month with fervor. As the tour wears on and I get more tired, I will try even harder. This is the time of the tour when you find out what you're made of. You don't start taking breaks. I came on this tour as a way of challenging myself, and I will do so to the full extent. When it gets hard, I usually ask myself: would JTF2 stop for this? Long distance, rain, cold, sun, heat, charging elephants, gun-wielding bandits, broken kit, or exhaustion, nothing will stop me. I will drag myself into Cape Town if I have to and I guarantee I will have a smile on my face for doing it.

As a last note, I have decided to race this next section (The Elephant Highway). My cycling has improved greatly and I want to see how I do compared to the real racers of the tour. I don't expect to win at all, but see how I fare when I push myself. One of the days I raced so far, I was 3.5 hours faster than a day of similar conditions and distance from the beginning of the tour. So, we'll see if I can actually place on the board as the section draws to a close in the next 6 days. Anyway, I'm in Maun, Botswana now, and the wild animals of the Okavango Delta are calling my name. So, as usual, I leave you with some random stats.

Trip distance: about 9100km
Average trip speed: 22.52km/h
Time on saddle: 390hrs
Longest ride: 182kms
Elephants seen: 3
Camps moved due to lions and a giant python: 1
Highest race placing: 3rd
Tires left: 3
Countries dominated: 8

Monday, April 11, 2011

The tough life in Malawi.

Well, I have one day left in Malawi. I wish I had something spectacular to say about it, but I don't. After I left Mbyea, I cycled for 4 days. The rides were very nice, albeit a little hilly. The scenery was beautiful but not breath-taking. I think Tanzania was by far the most beautiful place, so it's going to be hard to fill those shoes. There are some high points, though, for sure.

1) Lake Malawi. What an awesome lake. It's huge. And there are always thunderstorms on the other side that you can watch at night. Plus, there are some huge mountains all around you that are extremely lush and almost glow green. Also, it's Lake Malawi. Who doesn't want to say that they jammed there? No, I did not go swimming for there was a huge risk of parasites/bacterial infections. Shame, I know. This is all in a place called Chitimba. It was small, but I didn't leave the campsite anyway.

2) The riding. Well, some of it. I rode really well and had many complements from the racers as to how I was turning into a rocket on my bike. However, I did have a bad day. Nothing in particular happened, I just didn't feel strong and the ground was hilly. But, I had 3 great days, so it kind of makes up for it.

3) Lilongwe. Finally, some civilization. It's nice to be able to get groceries for the post-ride meal. The city is pretty nice, even if the drivers are atrocious. There is an awesome wood market pretty close to the campsite where I picked up some local souvenirs. Also, the service where we're staying (Mubaya Campsite) is awesome. They are the first place to actually have real staff and get your food within 2 hours of you ordering it.

Other than that, there is not a whole heck of a lot to say about Malawi. Most of the country is farm fields with either corn or tobacco growing. It reminds me a lot of Fallowfield road back in Ottawa. Just some plain fields. There have been some pretty cool insects, though. I have encountered more than one golden orb spider. They are really big, but harmless. They're a neat bug because they weave golden webs instead of clear ones. Also, the stars are pretty great at night (when it's not raining, of course.)

Well, I'm sad to say that's all I have to say. Malawi has not inspired me much. What I am glad to report, however, is that I am still as stoked to be doing this as before. A lot of people are leaving the tour for a while to get out of the routine. They're getting tired of the routine and the cycling. But, really, what do you expect? You signed up for a 4 month tour of Africa on a bike, and that's what you get. But, I digress... So, I am rolling along as awesomely as before. Anyway, when I get to Zambia, I will post a more inspired post, I hope. Lastly, I leave you with these random stats.

Hours on bike: 311
Estimated rotation of legs (assuming 75rpm): 1,400,000
Showers: 10
Parts changed since last post: Rear wheel bearing x1, front wheel bearing x1.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Continental tires!

"Are you tired of always having air in your tires? Tired of going for a care-free bike ride? Never fear! Continental Cyclocross tires are here! New and improved, they are guaranteed to hemorrhage air as fast as you can pump it in! Built on a weak and flimsy rubber casing with no puncture resistance whatsoever, Cyclocross tires will leave you stranded in the rain and mud every time you ride your bike! Listen to this real life testimonial!

Daniel Emerson, Ottawa, Canada: "I never used to leak air out of my tires. I would just get on my bike and ride. Thankfully I discovered Cyclocross tires and I've been collecting thorns and patching tubes ever since! Thanks Continental!"


Ok, so on a different note, here I am almost finished riding Tanzania! I'm in Mbyea, a town of about 200,000 people which lies (of course) in a mountain range. We've just finished riding an 8 day section of dirt roads from Arusha to here. They were hard, for sure. But not hard enough for me. So, what did I do? I rode the whole section in two gears. And climbed a mountain in one gear. Just to see if I could. And I did. But guess what? My legs hurt. A lot. The whole section was probably my favourite section so far. All of the colours here are so vivid! There is green everywhere and animals a-plenty. Well, insects a plenty. I have really only seen one warthog while cycling. I have seen a ton of cool bugs, mind you. There are a ton of ants that streak across the road like black veins, numerous large caterpillars, a ton of butterflies and moths, lots of praying mantises (manti?), some snakes (which I've only ever seen squashed on the road) and just generally a lot of cool stuff. Oh, did I mention how green it is? Ya, it's green. When I cycle by the long grass, it actually looks illuminated a-la-Avatar. The flowers as well. It's just so green! Along our route, there is also a ton of farming (green). There are corn fields and tobacco fields everywhere. It seems to be a great source of income for the country. The people are very nice along the road as well. They all pass by and yell "Poa, poa" (Good, good in swahili) and give you a thumbs up, or stop to help you fix the 26 punctures you've had.

The weather is the only bad part of this section. It's the rainy season here, so it rains every day. Now, the rain during the ride is actually a lot of fun. It just teams rain down on you. I mean it absolutely pours. And it's nice. It cools you down and cleans your bike a bit. The downside is that the roads become mud and I mean deep mud. The kind of mud you step in and lose your shoes. And that mud gets thrown upon you and your bike and in your eyes, nose, mouth and whatever else is exposed. Somehow it even gets under your clothes. Still, not too bad. It's fun to feel so dirty after a hard day of riding. What sucks is not having a shower for the next 8 days. Then waking up to a soaking wet tent and putting on soaking wet cycling kit and shoes. Then you pack up your wet tent and eat breakfast in the rain. Then when you start cycling, your bike weighs 20 pounds more than normal because you're collecting mud like it's rare. Then you climb uphill (always) and your back tire spins and it takes you twice as long to get up said hill. That is unless you've stopped and fallen over because your tires can't turn in the mud. Now, again, I sound like I'm bitching, but I love it. I don't mind being dirty and my sleeping bag is not wet (thank you army and Goretex) so I just ride it out like any other day. Overall, I have really loved Tanzania.

On another different note, thanks to all for the encouraging comments after my last post. I never expected such a response. The post wasn't meant to be a grab for compliments, just a view into my headspace at the time. However, I have renewed confidence in my journey after such a flood of positive words. I really could not do this without the help from you guys. It's very encouraging to check e-mail after 8 days and find a slew of people offering a helping hand or a thoughtful word. Also, I have received a few compliments from some riders on how strong I've become on the bike. Even Horst (#2 racer) said he is proud to see me ride now. So, thank you all again for all you've done for me. It has really made a difference. Anyway, I have to head off an eat. Must fuel the furnace. So, I leave you all with a thank you and some more random stats.

Punctures to date: 26
Total mileage: 6400km
Number of showers to date: 8
Parts worn out on bike: chain x1, cassette x1, crankset x1, brakeset x1, tires x1, front wheel bearing x1, rear wheel bearing x2, derailleur jockey wheel x1

Friday, March 18, 2011

50%

I made it. Well, I made it halfway. That's a good start for me considering my longest ride was 60km prior to this tour. 5530km of pure awesome. This trip has been incredible. I have seen so many things I never thought I'd see and done things I thought impossible. However, this trip does leave me a little... well, worried.

I came on this tour with the goal of discovering myself. So far, that has been an abysmal failure. I know nothing more than I did two months ago. All I've done is exercise. Lots of exercise, mind you, but still just exercise. It seems everyone on this tour is experiencing the same phenomenon. Many people decided to do this tour with the same intention as myself. They have left their jobs in search of new meaning or a new start. But as I've found, you just get wrapped up in this little TDA bubble, where everyone thinks like you. You spend more time with these people than your family, usually, and you feel like it's never going to end. Unfortunately, in another 50%, the bubble will burst and it will end. And then what? I will come back to a world where I have no job, no money and a little bit of debt to settle. Now, the debt doesn't scare me, the lack of job does. I have a few opportunities, but as far as career goes, I am at a total loss. I don't really want to do the mechanic thing, so the army is feasible. However, the army is still just another facet of the government and I really hate all the bureaucracy. So, really I find myself stuck in the same place as I was two months ago. Now, don't read into this as a failure. I think this trip will be one of the best things I've ever done. I've loved every day of it and will probably love every day to come. My attitude has just sort of shifted into this bubble that I forget has to end sometime. Anyway, I've come full circle in this point. I'm stuck in the same mental place that I was before, only now I'm there with 60 others. Also, after such a long time cycling, I still have no calves. That was another goal, but I didn't see that being accomplished anyway. Thanks, genetics.

So, I have really been thinking whilst I cycle along: What am I going to make of myself? Only time will tell. I have two months left to sort myself out and figure out what is going to happen. I do know this: I am capable, durable, stubborn, efficient and really good at spinning my legs in a circle. If anyone has any ideas for a good job, please let me know.

On a much less serious note, I went on safari here in Arusha, Tanzania. It was awesome. I went to the Ngorongoro crater, which is home to about 20,000 animals within a 265 square kilometer area. It's like a zoo, only it's not because it's their natural habitat. I saw lions, cheetah, zebra, rhino, elephants, pumba (warthog), buffalo, wildebeest, hyena, hippo, gazelle, kudu and all sorts of crazy birds. I actually ate lunch right near some hippo. They are huge! And my first elephant sighting was right out of Marsabit, a few weeks ago. I didn't mention it, as I had other things on my mind, but it was awesome! I came cycling up a hill and there was a huge bull elephant on a hill about 20m to my right. I just stared in awe. It was only about 5km out of town and I never expected it to be there! I've also seen giraffe in the past few days, but only from a car. It was getting to the point where everyone had seen a giraffe on their bikes except me, so I was ready to see a dinosaur before I saw a giraffe. But, good news: They're not extinct. They're just surprisingly hard to see. The vegetation can get incredibly dense here, now that is actually rains. In fact, I experienced rain for the first time in two months only two days ago. It was a weird feeling seeing clouds again.

Anyway, I have to head off. I have a bike to fix and more eating to do. I will post again in 8 days, after a long section of dirt. Hopefully I will make it unscathed. So, until next time everyone!

Danimal