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Ok, so on a different note, here I am almost finished riding Tanzania! I'm in Mbyea, a town of about 200,000 people which lies (of course) in a mountain range. We've just finished riding an 8 day section of dirt roads from Arusha to here. They were hard, for sure. But not hard enough for me. So, what did I do? I rode the whole section in two gears. And climbed a mountain in one gear. Just to see if I could. And I did. But guess what? My legs hurt. A lot. The whole section was probably my favourite section so far. All of the colours here are so vivid! There is green everywhere and animals a-plenty. Well, insects a plenty. I have really only seen one warthog while cycling. I have seen a ton of cool bugs, mind you. There are a ton of ants that streak across the road like black veins, numerous large caterpillars, a ton of butterflies and moths, lots of praying mantises (manti?), some snakes (which I've only ever seen squashed on the road) and just generally a lot of cool stuff. Oh, did I mention how green it is? Ya, it's green. When I cycle by the long grass, it actually looks illuminated a-la-Avatar. The flowers as well. It's just so green! Along our route, there is also a ton of farming (green). There are corn fields and tobacco fields everywhere. It seems to be a great source of income for the country. The people are very nice along the road as well. They all pass by and yell "Poa, poa" (Good, good in swahili) and give you a thumbs up, or stop to help you fix the 26 punctures you've had.
The weather is the only bad part of this section. It's the rainy season here, so it rains every day. Now, the rain during the ride is actually a lot of fun. It just teams rain down on you. I mean it absolutely pours. And it's nice. It cools you down and cleans your bike a bit. The downside is that the roads become mud and I mean deep mud. The kind of mud you step in and lose your shoes. And that mud gets thrown upon you and your bike and in your eyes, nose, mouth and whatever else is exposed. Somehow it even gets under your clothes. Still, not too bad. It's fun to feel so dirty after a hard day of riding. What sucks is not having a shower for the next 8 days. Then waking up to a soaking wet tent and putting on soaking wet cycling kit and shoes. Then you pack up your wet tent and eat breakfast in the rain. Then when you start cycling, your bike weighs 20 pounds more than normal because you're collecting mud like it's rare. Then you climb uphill (always) and your back tire spins and it takes you twice as long to get up said hill. That is unless you've stopped and fallen over because your tires can't turn in the mud. Now, again, I sound like I'm bitching, but I love it. I don't mind being dirty and my sleeping bag is not wet (thank you army and Goretex) so I just ride it out like any other day. Overall, I have really loved Tanzania.
On another different note, thanks to all for the encouraging comments after my last post. I never expected such a response. The post wasn't meant to be a grab for compliments, just a view into my headspace at the time. However, I have renewed confidence in my journey after such a flood of positive words. I really could not do this without the help from you guys. It's very encouraging to check e-mail after 8 days and find a slew of people offering a helping hand or a thoughtful word. Also, I have received a few compliments from some riders on how strong I've become on the bike. Even Horst (#2 racer) said he is proud to see me ride now. So, thank you all again for all you've done for me. It has really made a difference. Anyway, I have to head off an eat. Must fuel the furnace. So, I leave you all with a thank you and some more random stats.
Punctures to date: 26
Total mileage: 6400km
Number of showers to date: 8
Parts worn out on bike: chain x1, cassette x1, crankset x1, brakeset x1, tires x1, front wheel bearing x1, rear wheel bearing x2, derailleur jockey wheel x1
hey i'm sure you've heard of these, and i know they weigh a bit extra and probably not worth the $350 shipping you'd have to pay, but:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442497937&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693707
i had 10 flats last summer, installed these in december and haven't had a flat since! of course i haven't been for a ride yet...
If the Ontario school system had taught geography, you'd realise that you're in the mud flats!
ReplyDeleteMore seriously, surely you guys all know each other well enough that at the end of the day you can just strip down and let the rain wash off the mud, perhaps with the males and females on opposite sides of the trucks. At least it's a warm rain, I hope.
I can't wait until you're back and we get to hear the detailed version of this trip, which will require many meals, I'm sure.
It's great that you're enjoying Tanzania, which sounds like the first unblemished country since Sudan. The money-grubbing Egyptians, stone-throwing Ethiopians, and gun-toting Kenyans tended to taint your otherwise positive impressions of those countries, but it sounds as if Tanzania has been uniformly great.
I'm also pleased to hear that you've adopted my style of biking, which is to stay in one gear. Most of the gears on my 35-year-old 10-speed bike have never been used, which will help the resale value. Maybe you'll extend your trip and re-do Ethiopia on one gear?
Can't wait to see the next instalment!
That sucks about all the flats. Did you use the patches I got you for christmas? If not I am disappointed. Other than that good job and post pictures
ReplyDeleteI thought you were crazy to go on this bike trip in the first place. Now I KNOW you are crazy. A hill in one gear?? I get out of breath just reading about it.
ReplyDeleteThe pictures on the TDA website of the section you've just come through of the Masai Steppes are beautiful. Looks like you actually lucked into some decent weather as well as the rain. You appeared to be on top of the world there. The flora and fauna sound like they've been spectacular.
Glad to see that your shower to km ratio has improved from 1:1000!
Isn't it astonishing how a continent can change so dramatically? Africa is so much more than most of us picture when we hear the work Africa. The things that come to mind are wars, starvation, wild animals, heat, deserts. But there are the mountains, the green, the butterflys and flowers. Hope you're taking lots of pictures.
Will wait to hear all about Malawi.
love,
Mom